The former province of Périgord is now known as the Dordogne after the river which runs through it to join the Atlantic Ocean near Bordeaux. It is also known as the cradle of humanity because of the many prehistoric sites attesting to man's occupation from early days. The region is divided into four parts, each of which bears the name of a colour, illustrating the variety of the region.
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Situated to the north, with Nontron as its main town, it is green like its rolling hills, criss crossed by a web of streams and rivers. The Dronne, the Bandiat and the Auvézère all flow through this region which stretches from Lanouaille to La Roche-Chalais, through Nontron, Brantôme, Bourdeilles and Ribérac. It is a land of trees and water, of reflections and landscapes which have inspired painters. |
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White Périgord, situated at the
heart of the region, is so called because of the colour of
the limestone plateaux through which the
Auvézère and the Isle flow. |
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It extends along the valleys of the Vézère and the Dordogne from their confluent, in the south-east of the region, its landscapes and sites preserved from time immemorial. Its name is derived from the truffles and mushrooms which grow in abundance, and also, according to some, because of the darkness in the thick woodlands due to the domination of oak trees whose leaves exclude the sunlight.. The main town is Sarlat and there are many prehistoric sites in the area, such as Lascaux, Les Eyzies or Le Bugue. |
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Up-river towards the mouth of the Dordogne, to the south and south-west of the area, near the famous vinyards of the Bordeaux region is Purple Périgord, a recent but appropriate designation for the area around Bergerac, which takes its name from the purple grapes growing there. This is the land made famous by the essayist Montaigne, where vines and tobacco grow and where French and English fortified towns remind the visitor of a troubled period of social history. |
The inhabitants of what was to become the Perigord
region have left so much evidence of their existence and way of life
that the valley of the Vézère has become a sanctuary to
their memory and a prestigious prehistoric site.
Industrious and prosperous tribes of Gauls who lived in the hills and
already knew the secrets of iron joined together and became known as
the Petrocores. Under the Romans, they built in the valley the
important town of Vésone which became a city in the first
century AD and part of the Roman Empire. After the invasions, the
antique Civitas Petrocorium became the province of Périgord
and played an important part in the struggle for the independance of
Aquitaine, before coming under the French monarchy. The French king
Henri IV was the last Count of Périgord.
During
the Hundred Years' War, the region marked the boundary of French and
English possessions and was thus the scene of incessant combat,
resulting in the many castles which were the bastions of rival
factions. Feudal struggles were fierce and the spirit of liberty was
evident from early on. The towns were administered by consuls and
walls were built to protect the cities.
After the destructions and massacres of the Wars of Religion (1562 -
1598), these military defences were used for the last time during the
troubles known as "La Fronde" (1649 - 1652).
During the French Revolution, the Périgord region changed its
name in 1790 and became known as the Dordogne, with the capital
changing successively from Périgueux to Bergerac then Sarlat
before finally becoming Périgueux again.
Situated on the 45th parallel, half-way between the North Pole and the Equator, the Périgord region is near enough to the Atlantic Ocean to benefit from its temperate influence in winter without the disadvantage of its fogs, and near enough to the mountains of the Massif Central to give relief to it rolling plains without the rigours of their climate. It is no mere chance if Man was born here.
From the highest point (478m) in the Vieillecort forest, its rivers fan out over - Aquitaine adding to its beauty with their waters and vallies. The landscape is varied, with rocks and torrents near Nontron, lakes in the Double forest, gentle hills in the White Périgord region, rugged stony ground in the Black Périgord region and lush farmlands in the lower Dordogne where tobacco and vines are grown.
The region has been famed for its iron and forges
from time immemorial and had many prosperous industries up until the
last century. The diversity of its agricultural products, some of
which are quite unusual like truffles (Sorges), foie gras, walnuts
and the oil they give (Molières), strawberries (Vergt) and
Montbazillac wine, have brought reknown to the area.
Even so, it has seen its population fall sharply despite the growing
number of foreign - mainly English - inhabitants.
These are many in this region which is well known for its leisurely life-style: prehistoric remains such as the Lascaux caves, Roman remains around Périgueux, Renaissance castles near Sarlat or Brantôme and manor houses perched like eagles' nests as in Les Eyzies. Pleasant fern-bordered roads meander through rolling plains or leafy woods full of mushrooms and other delights waiting to be picked.
All of its illustrious personalities had the
thirst for liberty typical of the inhabitants of the area, although
their quest took various forms, mainly the pen or the sword.
Amongst the great warriors is Galety, an unconquered rebel who led
the poplar uprising of the "Croquants" between 1638 - 40. The dashing
cavalry officer Fournier-Sarlovèze (1775 - 1827) was famous
during the Empire period, as were the general Daumesnil (1766 -
1832), hero of the Battle of Vincennes and Marshal Bugeaud (1784 -
1832) who helped colonize Algeria.
However it is in the literary field that famous
personalities from the region have distinguished themselves and the
novels of Eugène Le Roy, such as Jacquou le Croquant, le
Moulin de Frau or The Enemy of Death help the reader get to know the
region. From Nontron came the novelist Chabaneau (1831 - 1908) and
the historian Georges Rocal (1888 - 1967) and from Ribérac the
13th-century troubadour Arnaud Daniel.
On
the banks of the Dronne, Bourdeille Castle and Brantôme Abbay
provide reminders of the author of the Brantôme Chronicles
(1534 - 1614), who is buried at Richemont Castle. The novelist
Bourliaguet was born at Thiviers. The region of Exicideuil was the
birthplace of the 13th century troubadour Giraut de Borneil and
Essendiéras Castle that of André Maurois (1885 - 1967).
From Périgueux hailed the pamphleteer Lagrange-Chancel (1677 -
1758), the controversial Catholic writer Léon Bloy (1846 -
1917), female authors G. de Peyrebrun (1848 - 1917) and Rachilde
(1862 - 1953) and the poet Pestour (1855 - 1965).
The tomb of the Prince d'Arauncanie, Antoine de Tounens (1825 - 1878)
can be visited at Tourtoirac, whilst the castle at Hautefort honours
the memory of the 13th-century troubadour Bertan de Born, as well as
that of Eugène Le Roy (1836 - 1907) who died at Montignac,
birthplace of the philosopher Joubert (1754 - 1824) and the writer of
fables Lachambeaudie ( 1806 - 1878).
Salignac,
Toulgou and Erignac provide reminders of one of the most prolific
writers of his time, the musketeer La Calprenède (1612 -
1663). The manor and birthplace of La Boétie (1530 - 1563) are
to be found in Sarlat. Several men of law were born in the region,
such as Sirey ( 1762 - 1845), de Malville from Domme, one of those
responsible for the "Code Cicil" (1741 - 1824), or the sociologist de
Tarde (1843 - 1904). The modern noveslist Albéric Cahuet found
inspiration in Fondaumier. Sainte-Mondane Castle was the birthplace
of the great Fénelon (1651 - 1715), and Cadouin that of the
film director Louis Delluc, who also "invented" the film critic.
Fulbert-Dumonteil (1830 - 1912), who was famed for his wit and
considered as Périgord's answer to Brillat-Savarin, was born
in Vergt.
At Grateloup near Bergerac may be found the tomb of the philosopher
Maine de Biran (1766 - 1824) and at Port-Saint-Foy that of the art
critic Elie Faure (1873 - 1937). Another site well worth a visit is
the Library Tower at Montaigne Castle, birthplace of the great
philosopher of the same name (1533 - 1592), who began his career as a
magistrate in Périgueux, a town which remained dear to
him.
"M'aimerois à l'adventure mieulx
deuxiesme ou troisième à Périgueux que premier
à Paris"
"I would rather be second or third in Périgueux than first in
Paris"
Montaigne
Le Bugue and indeed the whole of France did not appreciate the talents of Doctor Jean Rey (1583 - 1645) who discovered the theory of the specific gravity of air and that of the oxydation of metal a hundred years before its official discovery. The Bergerac region of the Dordogne was the home of many famous actors like the Mounet brothers and Mounet-Sully (1841 - 1916), Lafon (1775 - 1846) from Lalinde who was the rival of Talma. The Convention period poet and painter Gabriel Bouquier (1739 - 1800) was born in Terrasson and the composer Jean-Baptiste Lemoyen (1751 - 1796) who performed at all the great courts of Europe was born in nearby Eymet. However, the greatest artists of the region remain anonymous: they are responsible for the prehistoric animal paintings in the caves of Lascaux and Les Eyzies.
Few regions can boast of so much talent concentrated into such a small area from so early on.
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